The HF radio, however, has much less space above its top mounted speaker. In this layout there is a fair amount of space below the V/U radio’s speaker to allow for sufficient sound output. I decided one external speaker would be adequate based on the layout I settled on. The addition of a rear mounting plate gave me a place to pull out the V/U transceiver’s antenna connection for easier access as well. This makes it very convenient when in the field since I don’t have to reach into the case to plug in the interface cables.
In order to simplify the cabling between the SignaLinks and my laptop I decided to us a powered USB hub and to make the USB hub accessible on the back of the case. Having two units also allows me to never worry about changing radio and SignaLink wiring to operate on the band I need to. I went with multiple digital interfaces because while I will most likely never be transmitting on both V/U and HF simultaneously, it can be very handy to be able to monitor both at the same time or to monitor one while transmitting on the other. The SignaLinks are separated by the speaker to easily differentiate which unit is connected to which radio. This left the VHF/UHF transceiver, speaker, and two SignaLinks for the top shelf. While not necessary, this is a nice feature to have because it prevents your radio from turning off while operating if there is an interruption of power (which can easily happen in emergency and field operations). This allows the power system to seamlessly change from AC wall/generator power to battery power. As part of the power distribution system I wanted to incorporate an automatic backup power switch. After my experiments in CAD I found that a good organizational layout was achieved with the power supply, power distribution, and HF transceiver mounted on the bottom. The general design philosophy for this project was to have all of the equipment mounted to two shelves (one on the bottom and one at the top). The 4 unit shallow case I used is 22.4″ x 16.2″ x 9.1″ and weighs 12.8lbs. I laid out several possible equipment arrangements in CAD and found that if I kept the kit fairly barebones (no SWR meters or external antenna tuners, only one external speaker) I could also move from a 6 unit case to a 4 unit and still fit everything I needed. Using a shallow case saves me 8″ of depth and cuts the weight as well.
#Homemade cb radio box full#
After evaluating the equipment I planned to use in the kit I realized that I did not need a full depth case.
#Homemade cb radio box full size#
Most builders us a full size 6 unit case, which is not compact (roughly 24″ square and 13″ tall) nor lightweight (over 18lbs). I always liked the sturdiness and modularity of this type of case, but not the bulk. If you look around the internet you will see a lot of people building go kits in rack cases. My new goal was to build an all-in-one station in a box that was not overly bulky or heavy. While functional, neither of these was as capable or robust as I ultimately wanted my go kit to be. The forum is here to help if you have troubles with any antenna.Last year I put together both VHF/UHF and HF go kits. That will only cost about 10 euros and will do just about great !īeyond the mentioned antennas.i think you could say in all fairness.we are not speaking about a low budget anymore. That saturn is the one i like "best" and is attached in the PDF. (we are still speaking about 50 euros effort) You can add a director / reflector and gain 5 dB The mentioned dipole for sure is a good one. There are many cheap ways to have a antenna. So, you have one primairy task.how the heck, can i put up anything high With that said, it is not that in all cases its a thumb of rule.no as always there are exceptions. Not because the angle will always be lower.but the horizontal antenna in most cases will produce more gain, this cause a horizontal antenna will bennefit from "ground gain". If you can place the antenna at say 20 feet (and preferebly much higher) you should go for a horizontal antenna. So, if you are limited in height you should focus on a vertical. Reasonable beeing anything above say.20 feet. Horizontal antennas need a reasonable height in order to get a rather low take off angle.Īnd there is a crossing point between verticals and horizontals. There is a down side to that horizontal antenna thingy. Now, we can all say: put up a groundplane/5/8 wave etc.but its easy for a horizontal antenna to produce more gain under a lower angle. If it was simple as that, problem solved.but sadly vertical antennas often "lack" gain. Vertical polarised antennas have by nature a rather low take off angle. With the most important thing beeing heigth and polarisation.
That means you are interested in receiving at a low angle.
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